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The difference between live and online poker

January 28, 2011 4 comments

Some people have played in a Brick & Mortar casino all their life and want to start playing online. Some players have been playing online their whole life and would like to start playing in a B&M casino. The question that all of those people will sooner or later ask is: what is the difference between live and online poker? Personally, I haven’t played much in real casinos, but from what I was able to gather and from what I’ve heard from friends, live games are much softer for a skilled player to beat. Here are some arguments:

1) There are many more casual players in B&M casinos than online.
There is no rule as to whom might be playing poker in a casino. It could be anyone: from the millionaire businessman who is not sure if a flush beats a straight, to the person who has just lost his yearly salary playing blackjack and decided to sit down by the poker table on his way to he toilet. The end result is that in a B&M casino there are considerably more players who are there for pure entertainment or simply to gamble. That’s what a casino is for in the eyes of most of its visitors.

Online, on the other hand, players need to demonstrate some sort of commitment. You need to visit a website, download the software, register an account, then figure out a way to deposit your money, probably reading one or two articles along the way. And if you do that, then you are more likely to be interested in understanding the rules and strategies of the game. Also, when playing online you are far more likely to come across strategy websites and other poker schools such as Card Runners.

2) The UIGEA and other laws.
Many countries and states are against online poker. In some cases, such as the US, this has resulted in the deterioration of the accessibility of online payment processors that could be used to deposit money to a poker room. This, on the other hand, limits the number of casual online poker players even more, leaving only those who are really determined to make a deposit. And those are exactly the people who are likely to become good at poker.

3) Live poker is more intimidating.
When playing live, people feel that their decisions are being scrutinized, they are therefore less likely to do absolutely crazy raises in weird spots, fearing the judgement of others at the table. Online players don’t have this problem; an online poker player is most likely sitting there at home in his pants, with a bag of Cheetos and the TV turned on. He is feeling very comfortable, which results in more aggressive and abnormal decisions that can increase variance for others in online games.

4) Online poker players can multi-table.
This is crucial. In a live game, you can only play one table at a time. An online player can have as many as 12 (and sometimes twice as many) tables open at any given time. This allows him to play a tight game, which means that players are less likely to be playing with absolutely marginal hands, because they can afford to wait. In a B&M casino this isn’t the case. With 25 hands per hour (as opposed to 800-1600 hands online), B&M players get impatient quickly. After all, they didn’t drive all across town with their cash in order to just sit there and play 3-4 hands per hour. They want action. This means they are much looser, making it easier for a skilled player to extract maximum value with his good hands.

5) Less time for decisions online.
The more pressed for time you are, the more likely you are to make an irrational decision, resulting in money loss over time. In online poker you have less time to think than live, which again makes internet poker harder.

6) Numbers, numbers, numbers
No one can deny that there are way more people playing online poker than live in casinos. When playing on PokerStars, for example, players can easily afford waiting for a donkey to show up, and because of that – online players are even MORE tight than casino players. In a casino, however, you don’t really have many options in terms of table selection. Once you sit down, you are likely stuck with that table for the rest of the night. This in turn means you’ll want to quickly get on with the action (as you will have no other options later on), which breeds impatience, which breeds soft games.

7) Poker software.
This one is simple. There are no HUD’s or poker analysis tools available in casinos. This makes online games considerably tougher.

8 ) Online players have more experience.
Assuming that 4 tables is the average an online poker player will play, he will be putting in around 300 hands an hour. In that same time, a live casino player will have played around 25 hands. This means that a live poker player requires 12 hours to log in the same number of hands that the average online player will play in an hour. And this figure doubles in the case of better online players, who play 8 tables at once. Add to that the vast resources online players have at their disposition, such as forums, the software I mentioned above, and community sites, and you can see that “onliners’ are MUCH tougher opponents.

9) Alcohol in casinos .
Speaks for itself. ūüôā

10) Stakes discrepancy.
Keep in mind that the lowest stakes available live are usually $1/$2, while the lowest stakes online are $0.01/$0.02. This means that the weakest live players usually buy-in for $200, while the weakest online player usually buys in for $2. That is something many people switching from live to online play don’t take into account: they assume that since they have been beating the $1/$2 tables live then they can do the same online. This is simply not the case. Do not try to compare the stakes, and no matter what you’ve played live, always start with the lowest stakes online and make your way up using proper bankroll management.

Let me know what you think and please don’t hesitate to add to the list above.

Good luck.


What to do when your confidence drops

January 26, 2011 1 comment

Playing poker can be stressful, and for more than one reason:

1) you get hit by a wall of bad beats during a session,
2) you believe some of the players at the table are playing better than you and start feeling uncomfortable,
3) you’ve been on a downswing for a few weeks now. You are down 20 buy-ins and just don’t know what to do anymore,
4) your friend, who started playing poker the same day you did, is already crushing the NL $0.25/$.50 tables, while you are stuck playing $0.05/$0.10.

The list goes on.

Whatever the reason for your confidence drop,  here are a few notes and tips to help you regain your feeling of control.


Understand that confidence is actually a direct result of understanding. When we don’t understand something and are unaware of how it works, we tend to stop believing in ourselves, thinking that we cannot handle the situation. This is exactly what happens when you start doubting yourself as a result of having bad beats or a downswing. If this ever happens to you, stop playing and go read up on variance, and read up well. Start with some basics regarding poker odds and then move to more advanced stuff. Research the topic of variance on the twoplustwo forums. You may be thinking that you know what variance is, but trust me — 90% of the people who think that don’t really understand it. Read what other people have to say about it, read what others have experienced, and you’ll soon find yourself immunized to it. ¬†At least to a large extent.


Yes, I’m repeating myself. I’ve probably mentioned¬†bankroll management in every article so far. It just goes to show you the importance of the subject, and frankly, that is exactly what I’m trying to do. If you are constantly worried about losing a buy-in as a result of poor bankroll management, you will start to doubt your decisions quickly, talking yourself out of calls to avoid losing money, and soon your confidence will start diminishing. There is nothing wrong about playing massively overstacked if it helps; I know people who never move up in stakes before having at least 100 (one hundred) buy-ins for the new stakes. The amount of confidence this gives a player is enormous.


This is something you don’t hear people talk about often. We live in a society where the most important thing is to excel, to constantly do better and better. No one cares if you like what you are doing, as long as you are good at it. The fact is if you don’t like poker, sooner or later the game will take its toll on you. And unless you make tons of money (most players never do), it will certainly turn out not to be worth it in the end.

Make sure you are not playing just for the money. This might not be something you wanted to hear, but there you have it: you will almost certainly fail at poker if you don’t like the game. You will not be willing to put into it the time necessary to learn the game properly if you don’ like the game.

And this directly influences confidence. If you play just for the money, you are putting yourself under great pressure. You want to be “done with it” as quickly as possible, you want the money to start flowing in quickly. This will lead to tons of irrational decisions, and the losses will hinder your confidence, prompting you to lose even more.


This is in a way linked to bankroll management, but I decided to separate the two. If your livelihood depends on poker, you must be absolutely certain that you are capable of supporting yourself for at least 12 months even if you were to stop playing poker completely. Ideally you should have a backup fund outside of poker; money that you never use to play and just sits there, waiting for that dark hour to come. If you haven’t saved up that much money yet, do not quit your day job to become a professional poker player. Otherwise you will start freaking out every time your bankroll is in the smallest danger, and your confidence will once again dwindle as a result.


Don’t be afraid to do that if things get nasty. Whenever moving up the stakes you should plan ahead on when to move back down. Having a predetermined plan like this will help you play with more ease and will go a far way towards increasing your confidence.


You have to be very careful about getting overconfident, which can be just as bad (sometimes worse) as losing your confidence. Stick to proper bankroll management (here it is again), always think before making a decision at the tables, never assume that you are better than anyone; poker is more about becoming better than yourself. So focus on your decisions and analysis of the hands, and let the results speak for themselves. Play at least half a million hands before declaring yourself a guru in your own head.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask questions if you have any.

Good luck.

Categories: Becoming better

Which poker books are worth your attention

January 23, 2011 6 comments

As most people reading this blog are beginners, I decided to make a list of all the poker books that I have read and which I think you should know of.

Some people say that reading poker books is¬†unnecessary, and that all you really need to play poker well ¬†is a combination of experience and hand analysis with the help of other poker players. I agree that you don’t need to read any books on poker — providing you do justice to hand analysis. But I do think that it can give you some extra edge, even if just a few percent. Reading these books will most certainly open up your mind to new possibilities and teach your mind to think unconventionally, which is always useful when for a poker player.

I have divided the books into categories, based on the different types of poker you may choose to play.

For Starters:

  • Getting Started in Hold Em by Ed Miller. A fantastic little book, well-written and engaging. A great ready for anyone completely new to poker, who would like a quick introduction to the game, the basic strategies and concepts, such as pre-flop hand valuation, domination, betting for value, protecting your hand, semi-bluffing, pot equity, and much more. Any micros player should definitely give it a shot.
  • The Little Green Book by Phil Gordon and H. Lederer. As the name suggest, the book is small and green. Just as the one above, it is a great introduction with many basic concepts explained. If you have to pick, go with the first book. If you can, get both. A very good read.

Poker Math:

  • Poker Math Made Easy by Roy Rounder. A simple and short book explaining the basic mathematical concepts found in poker. As far as I know this book is free, so click the link and read it.

No-Limit Hold ‘Em:

  • Harrington on Online Cash Games; 6-Max No-Limit Hold‚Äôem by Dan Harrington. An excellent resource for anyone starting out in online No-Limit Hold ‘Em. Deals with aggression, stack size consideration, using poker software to help you gain a huge edge on your opponents, and much more.
  • Veneer’s beating the micros e-book. An excellent, free book, written by one of the instructors at the reputable poker school, Card Runners. Intended for micro stakes players. Extremely valuable information from a very skilled player.

Limit Hold ‘Em:

  • Small Stakes Hold ‘Em – Winning Big With Expert Play by¬†Miller, Sklansky and Malmuth. The bible of beginner/intermediate Limit Hold ‘Em players. If you have $16 to spare, go for it.
  • Holdem For Advanced Players by Sklansky and Malmuth. This book is intended for the slightly more advanced Limit players. I strongly recommend you read the “Small Stakes Hold ‘Em” title described above before reading this one. Get both books if possible.


  • Harrington on Hold ‘Em Vol. 1, 2, 3 by Dan Harrington. The best series of books for any tournament player. Volume 1 talks about general tournament strategy, vol. 2 talks about the later stages of a tournament, and vol. 3 is a workbook with a set of exercises to test your understanding of the data presented in vol. 1 & 2. I don’t know a single serious tournament player who hasn’t read these books, even if just for fun. Note that these books will benefit cash games players greatly, as it gives a deep insight into the proper way of doing hand analysis.
  • Poker Tournament Strategies by Sylvester Suzuki. Aimed at tournament beginners, it talks about the strategies you can employ in small-buyin tournaments, both those allowing re-buys and those that don’t. It also contains a lot of useful advice about transitioning to higher buy-in tournaments.


  • Pot Limit Omaha: The Big Play Strategy by Jeff Hwang. A great resource for Pot Limit Omaha beginners. should be your first choice if you are starting out in the game. Received tons of positive reviews from fellow poker players.
  • High Low Split Poker, Seven-Card stud & Omaha by Ray Zee. Talks about strategy in¬†Omaha Eight-or-Better. The book was intended for people who already have a solid grasp of the basics of Omaha 8ob.

For Everyone:

  • Theory of Poker by Sklansky. The poker bible. No matter what your game of choice is, this book will help you greatly. Explores subjects such as pot odds, fundamental theorems, ante structures, effective odds, mathematical expectations and hourly rate, the value of deception, the semi-bluff, the free card, the psychology of poker, analysis at the table, and many more (these are all chapter names from within the book by the way, and there are 25 chapters total). An unconditional read.
  • The Poker Mindset: Essential Attitudes for Poker Success by Hilger. The best book out there dealing exclusively with the psychological aspects of playing poker. Tilt control, distancing yourself from the game, keeping your ego at bay, handling bad beats and downswings, and more. An excellent resource and well written, too.

Live Poker:

  • Caro’s Book of Poker Tells by Mike Caro. ¬†The best resource on learning how to read your opponents at a poker table. Virtually every conceivable poker tell is described in this book. Even if you don’t care about reading body language and signals, you should still read it — since many people have read it and will be trying to get reads on you based on that information from the book, knowing the rules will allow you to deceive your opponents with false tells.

Always remember though: no book will ever be a substitute for reading and participating in quality poker forums, such as 2+2 or Liquidpoker.

If you know some other books, please let me know in the poker and tell me what you learned from them.

Good Luck.

Categories: Becoming better Tags:

Set-mining tips – how to do it and not lose money

January 20, 2011 3 comments

You are set-mining when you call pre-flop holding a low pocket pair (22, 33, 44 and 55), with the intention of hitting a set on the flop.

Set-mining can be really profitable, but it can also have a huge negative impact on your bankroll if done incorrectly.

Let’s me make one thing clear: your chances of hitting a set are 1:8.5. And even when you DO catch it, you have absolutely no guarantee that your opponent will pay you off (in fact, most of the time he will simply fold to your first bet). ¬†Therefore, the key to proper set-mining is to have an idea of what you can do if you DON’T hit your set.

Here are 11 of the most important things to keep in mind when deciding whether to set-mine:

1) Calling with the intention to set-mine is always a better idea when you have better position relative to the pre-flop raiser. Position makes it easier for you to play post-flop even if you don’t hit your set; ¬†since he is acting before you, you will gain valuable information regarding his hand and will have a much easier time bluffing him (or simply calling down) with your pocket pair without even hitting a set.

2) It is always more profitable to set-mine when another player has already called the original raise. The more people go with you to the flop, the more likely you are to extract money if you hit a set.

3) always make sure that both you and the pre-flop raiser have at least full stacks (or very close to it). If you or your opponent for some reason have 70 big blinds, for example, you are not getting  good pot odds to set-mine.

4) Do not set-mine if there are aggressive players left to act behind you. Aggressive players like to re-raise pre-flop a lot, especially if someone has already called the original raiser (this is called a squeeze). If you do call with the intention of set-mining and an aggressive player re-raises, you will have to fold, and will lose everything you’ve invested in the hand without ever having reached the flop.

5) It¬†is not profitable to set-mine if the original raiser is an aggressive player, either. Aggressive players, as the name suggests, like to raise a lot, even when they don’t really have a hand. Therefore you are t very unlikely to extract too much money from him when you hit your set. He will probably do a continuation bet on the flop, and will fold to any signs of strength on your part. It might be a better idea to re-raise an aggressive player with a pocket pair (more on that further below).

6) Set-mining when you are out of position should be done almost exclusively in spots where it is a multi-way pot (more than two players total going to the flop), and/or when you and the original raiser have at least 160 big blinds each (this will maximize your winnings in the events that you actually do hit a set and your opponent gives away his stack).

7) Do not cal pre-flop re-raises with the intention to set mine, unless both you and the re-raiser have at least 220 big blinds (2,2 x buy-ins), or unless you have reason to believe you can push him off his hand on most flops. If you are a beginner though, you most likely won’t have this knowledge. If you do, props for you ūüôā

8 ) It can be more correct to re-raise your opponent with low pocket pairs rather than call him and set-mine. This is especially the case if you believe your opponent is simply making a bluff ¬†in position or perhaps trying to steal the blinds. Calling to set-mine in these spots is a very bad idea, since he will definitely be making a continuation bet on the flop, and you will have to fold if you didn’t hit your set.

If you re-raise him, however, you have a big chance of taking down the pot before the flop. And even if he calls, you are still likely to take down the pot with YOUR post-flop continuation bet. And if he still calls, you have a small chance of hitting a set on the turn, so not all is lost yet. Just make sure, if you are going to play like this, that your opponent is the type to raise a lot pre-flop with marginal hands.

9) If you do call pre-flop with the intention to set-mine, then miss the flop, and your opponent bets, always fold (unless you have a solid read on your opponent, then you can re-raise him, or sometimes call – is a bit more advanced stuff though). Please, don’t be afraid to fold.

10) As a general rule, and if you have absolutely no reads on your opponent whatsoever AND are out of position, you should not be set-mining unless the call size to stack ratio is at least 1:20. This means that if it costs you 1$ to call, both you and your opponent’s stacks should be $20 at least. Again, this is just a general rule for when you are absolutely clueless about who you are up against.

11) If someone raises, and a super short-stacker (with 10 big blinds, for example) goes all-in, you should not be calling the original raise, no matter what your position is. First of all, you have no chance of bluffing out the guy who went all-in, so unless you hit your set, you will most likely lose to the guy. Second, you are far less likely to get action from the original raiser, because of the guy who already went all-in. People are less likely to bluff or do crazy stunts when someone has already committed their stack, which means you won’t be able to extract much out of your opponent if you hit a set.


That is all for now. I will add some more in an upcoming article, as I don’t want to make this one longer than it already is. What I hope you have learned from this article ¬†is that you should never just blindly call pre-flop with a low pocket pair, hoping to catch a set. You should always stop for a moment and think about what it is you are actually hoping to achieve. How likely are you to get paid off if you hit a set? How likely are you to force your opponent off his hand if you don’t hit a set? Is your opponent’s raise a bluff or does he likely have something here? These are all questions you should be asking yourself before hitting “call”. That’s what winning poker players do.

I hope you will ask me if you have any questions.

Good luck!

How much can you make playing poker?

January 15, 2011 7 comments

It’s a question that gets asked by beginners a lot. And with all the World Series of Poker tournaments and Phil Iveys being paraded on TV, ¬†it is easy to form the belief that it is natural to be making 6 figures a year for any good poker player. It isn’t.

Whenever I am asked “how much can you make playing poker?” I always say that it depends on how much you play. Let me give you an example.


An “OK” poker player’s winning ratio is about 3 regular big blinds for every 100 hands that he plays. To be able to sustain such a ratio though, you need to be devoted and have good predispositions for the game. Read my¬†Poker Myths Part I article¬†to get a better feel for what it might require.

So if a someone is a regular at the No Limit $0.50/$1 stakes and plays at 6 tables¬†simultaneously, with each table averaging 80 hands per hour, this means that he is playing a total of 480 hands per hour. If his winning ratio is 3 big blinds / 100 hands, this translates to $3 / 100 hands. This gives us roughly about $15 per 480 hands. And that is how much you can make playing poker at the $0.50/$1 stakes if you are a good player — $15 per hour.

Assuming you play two 2-hour sessions each day (4 hours a day), you will be making $60 a day, which will translate to around $1800 a mont — providing that you play 4 hours a day, 7 days a week, every day of the month.

You will of course make some Rakeback as well. It is hard to estimate how much, since it depends on many variables, but I would say around $700 sounds about right.

The total for our above example would be around $2500 a month. That is quite good money, especially if you live in an eastern European country or many Asian / South American countries. You can live as a king off of it ūüôā


Your next question might be: “how long will it take before I can become a winning player at the $0.50/$1 stakes?” And again, the answer is: it depends.

If you put the time into it and have proper motivation and are eager to learn, I would say around 8 to 16 months. It takes some people less than that, and some people more. This is just a general estimate.

Keep in mind that while 3 regular big blinds / 100 hands is a good profit rate, there are quite a bit of players who make more than that. If you become really good, you can make 6 bb / 100 hands, and could probably play 8 tables simultaneously, which would translate into a monthly income of around $5,500 a month (including rakeback).

So the short answer to the question of how much can you make playing poker is: anywhere in the range of $1500 – $7000, with most of professional players being closer to the lower end of that range. If you can achieve a steady monthly income that fits in that range within your first year of play, you should consider it a great success. If you keep excelling from there, you might even start beating the higher stakes, such as $1/$2 and $2/$4, in which case your earnings may double or even triple.


There is a lot of money to be made in poker, no doubt about it. But it is not magic, nor an easy solid-proof way for making money. The number of poker players that make $150,000+ a year is similar to the number of people who make that kind of money outside of poker, in everyday life and businesses.

Poker Myths – Part 1

January 13, 2011 2 comments

With the popularity poker has gained in recent years, more and more people are talking about making a living as a poker professional. The advantages seem obvious: tons of free time, you get to set your own working hours, you earn lots of money, and you get to work from virtually any place on the planet, as long as there is an internet connection.

In general, all of the above is true. However… consider that various statistics show no more than 5% of all poker players has a chance of going pro. Just a CHANCE. This means that out of every 100,000 people who give poker a shot, 95000 will never have a chance of becoming a pro. In other words, the statistical odds are hugely against you.

Of course, everyone always thinks of themselves as being above average. And that’s good – it means that we all get to excel and evolve, becoming better and achieving the impossible. I am not saying that you cannot be a poker professional, I just claim that it is MUCH harder than you are led to believe. Here are a few poker myths I want to address:


Most poker professionals are extremely smart and industrious. They are the type who could ¬†quite easily plan, implement, launch and maintain their own company. Playing poker professionally is just lie running your own business — you need to manage your capital, invest money wisely, ¬†make tons of calculations, organize your own time, never get lazy, constantly gain new information. If starting your own business/company/shop sounds like something extremely hard to you, chances are high you will find it hard to be a poker professional.


Think again. It is true that you can make a lot of money playing poker. If you are running good. Once you start to run bad, however (and every poker player does, even the absolute best), you will be under pressure and will start playing way more than usual, in order to come out of the downswing and make back the money you’ve lost. After all, you need this money to survive. I know a lot of good poker players who would only play poker for 2-3 hours a day when they were running good, but when a downswing finally came, they would spend 6-7 hours daily for a few consecutive months (including weekends), freaking out in the meantime, wondering if they are ever going to to make money playing poker again.


Wrong. You constantly need to evolve in poker. The field is outstandingly competitive. People who fall into the trap of thinking too highly of themselves, calling everyone at the table “fish”, are the people who don’t make it too far in poker. If you become good and start beating the game, you have absolutely no guarantee that you will be beating the game one year from now. By that time, the level of the average player will be much higher. You need to constantly evolve and analyze hands to keep up with the competition. This alone can take up 1-2 hours of your day.


Playing poker is very taxing. It can drain you both physically (it requires a lot of concentration) and mentally (when you are experiencing a long downswing, you can really start to doubt yourself and stress out a ton over whether you’ll be able to make money further). Although it can make you happier in the sense that you may not need to worry about rent and food, it does come at a cost.


After reading the above you might ask me “then why the heck did you start playing poker in the first place if it is so terrible?”.

First of all, I started playing poker over 5 years ago, when it was a much easier.

Secnond, poker is not terrible. I wrote the article in this manner to bring your attention to the negative sides of poker. The game has been repulsively hyped during the last few years, and it is in everyone’s best interest to bring in as many new players as possible (the casino’s make money off of you, and the good poker players do so as well). It is NOT necessarily in the best interest of the new players. So while poker can be a really great thing, it can also be an absolutely terrible thing. Simply make sure not to put too much faith into it before you’ve played out at least 150,000 hands or so — because only then will you begin to understand what being a professional poker player is about.

Good luck.

Categories: Poker Strategy Tips Tags:

Pokerrooms are NOT rigged

January 10, 2011 2 comments

I hear a lot of beginner poker players complain about this. Here is a typical scenario:

“Man, I’ve been playing at [Insert name of random poker room here] for a few days now, and it seems that each time I flop a top pair, someone has a better kicker! each time I flop a set, someone flops a straight!! This is impossible, the pokerroom MUST BE RIGGED!!”


The poker room is NOT rigged. No poker room is. It is actually against the poker room’s best ¬†interest to cheat their players in any way. The more natural the games are and the more the players win, the bigger the chances they will keep playing and earn the casino more money. The last thing a casino wants to do is drive away its customers.


Because they haven’t learned how variance works. In poker, no matter how good you are, you can literally go on for months and months losing hands in the most outrageous ways. It might seem absolutely impossible and surreal at times. But ALWAYS keep in mind that there is a mathematical justification for what is going on. And once you are experienced enough, you will understand that it is simply a part of the game. It will continue to happen, for ever and ever, no matter how good you get. You can only try to minimize your losses when it happens.


1) Never switch to another poker room just because you are running badly. It is not the pokerroom’s fault, no matter how convinced you might be. Whenever you think of changing rooms, come back to this article and read it again.
2) Never allow yourself to be affected when you are getting a cold deck. It can be hard to stay in command of your emotions, so if you cannot do it — leave the poker tables and don’t play for a few hours. You will notice that with time, you will become more immune to it. To the point where you will almost stop caring.
3) If you find yourself thinking “this poker room is rigged”, realize that this there is simply a weakness in your game that needs to be corrected. Ask for help in some poker forums and let them help you.
4) Some people are tempted to move up the stakes when they are losing. Don’t do that either. Always follow the proper rules of bankroll management. Always.

If you are very new to poker, the article above might sound unreal to you. No matter — just bookmark it in your web browser. There will come a time when variance will hit you so badly that you will absolutely convinced the poker room is cheating you. When this happens, come back here – and re-read the whole article as many times as you need to let it sink in.


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